Steep Stoney By Steve

The club made a welcome return to Stoney Middleton on Tuesday. in recent years the Stoney meet has usually come with a ‘softer’ alternative of Froggatt or Burbage North… but this year it was an ‘all in’ approach. I think we had 12-14 people there sampling the delights of traditional peak Limestone.

Stoney Middleton comes with its own place in the history of Peak (and UK) climbing with the stories of Windy Ledge exploits by Whillans, Brown, Allen, Birtles, Proctor and later hard bouldering by Moon and Moffatt.  BuxtonMC would be following in their footsteps once again,  but maybe at a more leisurely pace… and with probably  less smoking.

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Simon above the Trees on Evasor

 

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Steve… how it used to be done (though previously more than 7″ above ground)

 

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David and James (hiding in the trees) on…something

 

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Alan and Matt finishing Padme

How Yellow Was My Valley… By Dan V

Our trip to the Emily Kelly Hut in North Wales was like a drop of pure, refreshing water in a vast desert.

As Britain baked in the harshest heatwave since the famed summer of ’76, a small band of merry mountaineers headed to the northern Welsh countryside. Despite weeks without rain and day after day of hot weather and cloudless skies, I packed my usual rain gear. After all, we were still in Britain. How long could this anomaly last? Another several weeks, as it turned out….

City of Gold!

In North Wales, gone were the usual grey skies, wind and rain. Gone were the usual lush green valleys and fields. The sky was cloudless and bright blue. The sun beat down and left nothing but burnt, yellow ground. The hut, usually a refuge from harsh weather, was instead a heat trap, the upstairs sauna-like upon our arrival. But who am I to complain? This was going to be a brilliant weekend.

Emma and Paul cycled on Saturday, enjoying a long tour through the hills and to the coast. Despite the burning sun and exhausting heat, the two cyclists were able to survive, buoyed by numerous ice cream and pizza stops. Paul also credited his survival to powerful sunglasses, so new, he didn’t even have time to take the label off! They returned sweaty, tired, brown, and oddly not hungry.

Emma and Ghost BikeGhost BikeSunglasses and Ice cream

Jo and William went on a long walk. I don’t know what they did or where they went, but I do know that William returned tired, but carrying a McDonald’s shake cup.

Robert and I took the most sensible approach in a heatwave, venturing out in the unrelenting sun and following the water pipeline up the steepest hill behind the hut. Two hours later we arrived at the foot of Lliwedd, our shirts and hats completely soaked through with sweat.

I had already drunk one litre of water. We climbed 10 pitches of enjoyable Welsh rock and then walked back. Our glory and feeling of triumph were only increased when we learned along the way that Belgium had defeated Brazil and France had beaten Uruguay to make an all-European World Cup. Take that South America!!! Also, apparently England did well. Or something.

classic climb

After the usual rounds of beer and white wine, which (exceptionally) we were able to enjoy outside in the warm evening, we managed to get to sleep. Sleeping bags seemed completely out of place, like umbrellas in the Sahara. A single sheet was all that protected me from the midges.

On Sunday most of us expected a quiet, relaxing day. We all started down toward the lake to relax. Instead we ended up plodding for some time through the heat, until we decided to wade back through the water. A boulder field on the route back served to justify our swim, as if it was instead a minefield, and only Robert had the ability to cross it. I expected we would just go in up to our knees or so. How naive I was. The lake quickly drops off from ankle deep to chest deep. Soon, we were all swimming, fully clothed, packs on backs, along the coast and through clouds of marijuana smoke, people on kayaks, and birds protecting their nests. Luckily at the last minute before going in, we had realised that wallets and phones do not dry out as well as other things, so Robert saved the day by taking these and walking back over the scary boulder field.

Buxton Swimmaneering CLub 1

swimmaneering club 2

We thought we had seen Britain at its yellowest, but the heatwave continued for weeks after our trip. The Buxton Swimmaneering Club may yet return to swim again. 

Stanage , Manchester Buttress

Tuesday 24th July saw the club heading to Stanage again, this time to Manchester Buttress area at Popular end. With 4 members still in France we still managed a good turnout to climbing and  had 4 in the walking group.

As would be expected Derek (fresh from the Ecrins granite), Chris, Brid, David, Ann and Simon all managed to climb Manchester Buttress. All doing the traverse in slightly different fashions

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Anne seconding Manchester Buttress

 

Anatomy and Physiology were all pretty popular as was Black Hawk Hell Crack

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Chris on Black Hawk Hell Crack (S4a)
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Jo on Black Hawk Hell Crack (S4a)

Tim climbed both Gargoyle Buttress (VS 4b) and Lancashire Wall (HVS-) but unfortunately I was belaying both of those so no photographic evidence. Simon on the other hand went for Gargoyle variant (HS 4b) and Tinkers Crack (VS 4c).

 

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Gemma taking her own path while seconding Simon on Tinkers Crack. David on Physiology

David led Black Hawk Traverse Left (VD) while Jo led the tricky Black Hawk (HS 4c) seconded by William and Stuart,

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Jo getting acquainted with the underside of the flake

First time attendee Kate managed to second 2-3 routes, enjoying a late night of freedom while child free. Hopefully she will return….she couldn’t have got a better introduction than a warm, midge free evening at a fairly deserted Stanage.

Karl, Steve and Dan headed off right to do some routes in that direction and Hattie got bored and took herself off to to see what was happening in the carpark.

 

The walking group of the Alps fit, Wendy, Daryl and Alison… plus Andy  set out from Hook’s car Car Park and enjoyed a short scramble up a descent route somewhere north of Robin Hood’s Balcony before heading south to inspect the climbers. They then visited Burbage North and Higgar Tor before returning to Stanage.

Andy Walk

Midges and Mayhem at the Mynydd Hut By Dan

The Buxton Mountaineering Club had another fine meet at the mythical Mynydd club hut at Blaen y Nant, Wales, in June. The weather was glorious. Sunny, warm, and not windy— just right for midges!

Mynedd Hut

The hut is set completely on its own, up a long, narrow, bumpy dirt track. It has a large kitchen and a very spacious living room. There are several rooms with bunks to accommodate many climbers. There is ample parking, and the garden consists of a huge lawn surrounded by trees. The interior and gardens both even boast paraphernalia and tributes to former Mynydd member and famed mountaineer Pete Boardman, adding a touch of mountaineering history to the mix. For most, these aspects would make it an easy sell. It is practically the Chequers Court of climber’s huts. But not for the Buxton MC! These virtues were simply not good enough. Throughout breakfast, throughout supper, throughout the day, complaints from our members raged. Too far away from the climbing. Too bumpy of a road. Not near any good walking areas. Wild horses shitting all around my camper van! And get these “&§%(!!ß(€ midges out of the room! It was like watching the Grinch rail on about how much he hated Christmas.

pesky horses

In truth, though, this opinion had a clear age-group split. Those under the age of 12 loved the hut. They loved the rope swings in the trees. They loved the wild horses walking past. They loved the space to play tag, hide and seek, they loved the giant-sized jenga blocks. They loved Brid’s magic show. They loved the view. They loved life!

Kids love rope swings!

Brid mesmerises

Saturday’s activities included a group of the climbing faithful (Declan, Derek, Alan, Saff, Stuart ….) hitting hard routes at the Moelwyns. Jo and son William had a scramble at Moel Siabod. Les n Del, grandkids, Moa (pronounced Moo-ah, for the 10,000th time) and Dan walked over to Capel Curig.

karate chop to top!!

Dec big and bold

 

ging gang gooli

A late night drinking session led, as it only could, to an arm wrestle between big guns Alan and Stuart.

Sunday was spent in the beautiful slate quarries. Mordor has nothing on this place! It’s all about the slate- walking up it, climbing on it, making toys out of it. Adrian, Robert… have I missed anyone? All had a swell time. 

safe quarries

Stu let's it all out

Slippery, sharp, and short, slate has it all! Jo led her first slate sport route, and not an easy one at that. There are no easy ones.

Jo leads

Declan Grafitti King

All in all, despite the sharp split of opinion on the hut, we all had a good time. The kids more than the adults, the midges most of all. They sure had some good meals that weekend….

Nitty Gritty – May’s Monthly climbing blog By Saffra

It’s been an active month in the club with several weeks of very settled warm weather with very little rain. Here follows summary of our climbing activity since the beginning of the season (inclusive of April), starting with the limestone. At the beginning of the month several members enjoyed a visit to horseshoe quarry where Tim, Declan and Rob climbed several 5’s (up to 5c level) and Gemma led her first route outside (I believe) which was an on sight lead on bolted limestone (4a). Well done Gemma!

 

Declan, Jo, Emma Jo, Brid, William, Saffra, Dave (Espley) and Jaimella have also been hitting the bolts at Intake Quarry a few times over the month. We have managed to lead most of the routes on Take Away Wall inclusive of several 6a/a+’s and even a 6b (Chop Suicide – red point) and a 6b+ (clip sticked). Saffra, Dave and Jaimella managed to top rope the 6c+ (Big Moon Night) in the middle of Take Away and decided that it was something that none of us would ever be able to lead. This led to talk of super glueing fingers and other extreme measures!

 

In addition to the limestone sports routes there has also been some limestone trad action this month. I heard talk that Rob led one of his first VS’s at Alderly early in May (not sure which one). Saffra and Jo have been along a couple of times in the week and managed to lead a number of HS’s, VS’s and an HVS including Ash tree slab, Nettlerash, Clothesline, Mitre crack, The cardinal and Broken toe. Still on the list to do are HVSs Anti-digestant and Janbaloo.  The crag is getting quite vegetated now and getting off is challenging at the top of Clothesline due to nettles and a dodgey scramble to the top (trousers are recommended here).

 

There has also been some action on the sports routes (on the stone viaduct) down at New Mills Torr. Myself and Jo, Emma Jo and William managed to get up seven of these over a couple of visits (sports grades 6a up to 6b+/6c).

 

Now onto trips away and multi-pitch adventures. Two climbing days were achieved at Dow Crag on the Coniston meet with myself, Declan and Rob climbing. Two routes were completed (one on each day). Due to us climbing as a three it was not possible to complete more. These were Arete, Crack and Corner and Abrahams route. Both of which were graded severe but certainly felt harder in places. Declan got the prize for choosing the worst most sandbaggy pitch with the last pitch of Abrahams route which (even though he was very sure he had not gone the wrong way) appeared to be much harder than the severe 4a grade it was supposed to be. Unfortunately the sun was not shining on Dow Crag that day and, as Saffra and Rob observed from their decidedly chilly ledge, opposite everyone seemed to be having a great time walking up Coniston Old Man on a brilliantly hot sunny day.

 

Finally down to the nitty gritty! Obviously being based in the Peak District this section will be the largest and most exciting. So a lot has been done at Stanage with Alan, Tim, Saffra, Jo, Rob etc leading routes such as Tango Buttress (HS 5a), High Neb Buttress (VS 4c), Tinkers Crack (VS 4c), Paradise wall (HS 4b) and Paradise Arete (VS 4c) with a couple of exciting back-offs and climb arounds on the latter. We had a successful day at Bamford Edge one Saturday in Mid May with Bilberry crack (VS 5a) being led twice, Browns crack (HS) and Quien Sabe – Who knows!  (VS 4c).

 

The weekend after Ross and Rob tackled Ramshaw (there be demons there!) where they tackled The Arete, Boomerang, Magic roundabout before finding some real demons on Wall and Groove (presumably in the groove part of the climb rather than the wall part). Then Rob thought that Louis Groove looked ‘OK’ to top rope. He found many more demons in that groove. The moral of the story probably being don’t climb anything at Ramshaw with the word ‘Groove’ in the title unless you are a descendant of Don Whillans. Or you could do what I do and avoid Ramshaw all together.

 

Anyway more grit stories are Dave and Jaimella have been getting out bouldering quite a bit at Burbage South. Dave quite recently led a HVS at Froggatt but I can’t remember which one or find it in the book. We had the club meet at Lawrencefield which was covered by the weekly blog. Since then Saffra and Jo have returned and knocked off Meringue (HVS 4c), Tyrone (VS but apparently HVS in the definitive guide but who knows (Quien Sabe?)), One pegged wall (VS 5a), Nova (HS 4b) and Limpopo Groove (VS 4b).

 

Quite a bit has been done at Windgather this year so far with 3 lead ascents of Struggle (VS 4c) by Chris, Alan and Saffra. Probably all of the V Diffs, Severes and Hard Severes have been done now.

 

Other bits and bobs are: an aborted Sunday meet to Shining Clough (too windy). People have allegedly been to Hobson Moor Quarry but I haven’t heard a report. There was also visit to Castle Naze (early on in the month) where Rob led Nozag (VS 4c). Recently Declan and Rob took a trip to Laddow Rocks and completed Long Climb (S4a) which sounded nice and no epics were encountered.

 

So lots of climbing done, a couple of minor falls, a bit of tennis elbow, a broken toe nail, some sore fingers and the tans are improving. Bring on June!

A Night to Remember, Roaches Lower – By Dan V

On Tuesday, 30th May ,  Buxton Mountaineering Club enjoyed a wonderful evening of outdoor pleasures at the Roaches, Staffordshire.  Walkers walked. Climbers climbed. Dogs scampered about. The sun shone. The wind blew. The New Inn pub in Flash made a tidy profit.

And all was right with the world…..for the moment.

These photos illustrate events of the night, as well as providing solid alibis for those pictured.